Question 1

Thermostatic or manual shower valve — which should I choose?

Accepted Answer

Thermostatic valves hold the water at a set temperature even if someone flushes a toilet or runs a tap elsewhere, and they shut off if the cold supply fails — the safer choice for families. Manual valves are simpler and cheaper but temperature can fluctuate. For most bathrooms we recommend thermostatic.

Question 2

What's the difference between a 1-outlet, 2-outlet and 3-outlet valve?

Accepted Answer

The number of outlets is how many shower components the valve can feed: one outlet runs a single fixed head; two outlets can run a fixed head plus a handset; three outlets add body jets or a bath filler. Choose the valve to match the shower kit you're planning — you can't add outlets later.

Question 3

Do concealed shower valves need a deep wall?

Accepted Answer

Concealed valves are recessed into the wall, typically needing 70-90mm of cavity depth — a standard stud wall works well. Solid brick walls need to be chased out. If you can't recess, an exposed bar valve mounts on the wall surface and needs no cavity at all.

Question 4

What water pressure do shower valves need?

Accepted Answer

Most thermostatic valves need a minimum of 0.5-1.0 bar to perform well. Gravity-fed systems (tank in loft) often sit below that — check the product's minimum pressure rating, or consider a pump. Combi boilers and unvented cylinders usually provide 1-3 bar, which suits everything we sell.

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